Electric car diagnostics is not one test. It is four separate reads that together explain why a vehicle is behaving badly, and skipping any of them is how owners end up replacing parts that were never broken.
The first is the 12V battery under load. A resting voltage reading tells you almost nothing — a battery can show 12.4 volts at the terminals and collapse to eight the moment the contactors ask for current. We use a conductance tester that reports actual delivered capacity against the battery's rated figure, so the number we give you reflects what the car experiences rather than what a multimeter sees.
The second is parasitic draw. Every modern electric vehicle keeps modules awake for connectivity, remote climate, sentry recording, and over-the-air updates, and the acceptable overnight draw is a specific figure per platform. Measuring it correctly means letting the car fall completely asleep, which on some vehicles takes forty minutes, then reading current with the vehicle undisturbed and pulling fuses methodically until the offending circuit shows itself.
The third is fault codes — stored, pending, and permanent — read across the modules the manufacturer exposes rather than just the generic OBD-II set. Pending codes are the useful ones, because they capture the intermittent fault that was gone by the time we arrived. The fourth is high-voltage pack data: state of health as a percentage of original capacity, plus module-level cell balance, which predicts trouble long before the headline percentage looks alarming.
You leave with a written report containing all four sets of numbers. That report is what makes a warranty conversation with a dealer productive, and it is what tells you honestly whether a used electric vehicle is worth buying.